The Foundation: Water and Solvents
The most common skincare ingredient of all is water, also known as H2O. The water used in cosmetics is purified and deionized, meaning that almost all of the mineral ions inside it are removed.
Butylene glycol (BG) is a multi-tasking, colorless, syrupy liquid that is excellent for creating a pleasant product feel. BG's primary role is typically as a solvent for other ingredients. Additionally, it functions as a penetration enhancer, helping the product absorb faster and deeper into the skin. It also acts as a slip agent, ensuring the product spreads nicely over the skin, and as a humectant, attracting water into the skin. The safety of BG has not been questioned, and it is approved by Ecocert, making it a popular choice in natural products.
Another clear, colorless liquid, it serves as a solvent and viscosity-decreasing ingredient. Primarily an oil-loving molecule, it aids in the effective mixing of water and oil, acting as an emulsifier. While it can create water-in-oil emulsions on its own, it is most often used alongside water-loving emulsifiers to formulate smooth oil-in-water creams. It also functions as a wetting and dispersing agent, helping insoluble particles like color pigments or inorganic sunscreens (zinc/titanium dioxide) to disperse evenly within liquids.
This long-named polymer molecule, composed of repeating subunits, is a helpful ingredient adept at emulsifying and stabilizing oils in water-based formulas. It also functions as a thickening and gelling agent, contributing to pleasant, non-sticky, and supple textures. Its effectiveness spans a wide pH range (3-12), making it suitable for thickening low-pH formulations, such as exfoliants.
Chemically, it is formed by attaching a glycerin molecule to stearic acid, a fatty acid. This ingredient can be produced from most vegetable oils through a relatively simple, "green" process similar to soap making. It is readily biodegradable and also occurs naturally in the human body, where it is used as a food additive.
Moisturizing and Hydrating Agents
A super common soothing ingredient, this is a type of sugar possessing water-binding properties that help maintain skin hydration.
A sugar beet-derived amino acid derivative, it offers beneficial skin protection and moisturization properties.
Panthenol, also known as pro-vitamin B5, is an easily formulated and commonly used ingredient. Its primary function in skincare is to moisturize the skin, acting as a humectant that helps the skin attract and retain water. Panthenol also boasts anti-inflammatory and skin-protecting abilities. Studies indicate it can reduce irritation caused by other ingredients and is beneficial for nail and hair care, providing hydration to both.
Panthenol is often paired with glyceryl stearate, forming a highly effective emulsifier duo that is tolerant to salt and acid and functions across a wide pH range.
Squalane is a saturated hydrocarbon, meaning it is a stable oily liquid with a long shelf life. It is found naturally in certain fish and plant oils (like olive oil) and in human skin's sebum. Squalane is an excellent moisturizer that leaves the skin feeling smooth and soft without being heavy or greasy. It is compatible with most skin types and conditions, including acne-prone skin, and is safe for use even with fungal skin issues like seborrhea or fungal acne. The less stable, unsaturated version is Squalene.
Stabilizers and Preservatives
A common helper ingredient, it ensures product stability over time by neutralizing metal ions that can enter the formula from water and cause undesirable changes.
This refers to pleasant-smelling substances added to cosmetic products to enhance their aroma. However, if you prefer to know exactly what you're applying to your face, fragrance can be a concern due to the unknown composition of its ingredients. For individuals with sensitive skin, fragrance is often best avoided, as both natural and synthetic fragrances can be a significant cause of contact allergies.
A useful multi-tasking ingredient that provides the skin with a pleasant, soft feel. The blend of caprylyl glycol and phenoxyethanol, known as Optiphen, not only preserves cosmetics effectively but also contributes to a desirable product feel.
A handy helper ingredient that facilitates the mixing of water and oil, functioning as an emulsifier.
This multi-functional helper ingredient offers several benefits in skincare: it imparts a soft and pleasant feel to the formula, acts as a humectant and emollient, can serve as a solvent for other ingredients (like stabilizing perfumes in water-based products), and aids in the even dispersion of pigments in makeup.
A mild, natural preservative, often found alongside other mild preservatives such as Benzoic Acid and/or Dehydroacetic Acid. It is also used as a food preservative.
Hydration Boosters and Peptides
This is the sodium salt form of hyaluronic acid (HA), a well-known humectant and natural moisturizing factor. Hyaluronic acid is a large polymer found in the skin that acts like a sponge, helping the skin retain water and maintain plumpness and elasticity. Sodium hyaluronate and hyaluronic acid are largely interchangeable in skincare, with some sources suggesting sodium hyaluronate's smaller molecular size allows for better skin penetration, though chemically they are very similar polymers.
Hydrolyzed Collagen is a chemically processed version of the large protein molecule, collagen. Proteins are chains of amino acids linked by peptide bonds, which can be broken down with the addition of water to form shorter chains of amino acids, or peptides. Hydrolyzed collagen is essentially a mixture of these peptides, which act as water-binding agents and help to smooth the skin (emollient effect).
Summary of Common Ingredients
- Water: Purified and deionized, it's the primary solvent.
- Glycols (e.g., Butylene Glycol): Act as solvents, humectants, penetration enhancers, and provide slip.
- Emulsifiers: Help oil and water mix (e.g., Glyceryl Stearate).
- Thickeners/Stabilizers: Improve formula consistency and stability.
- Soothing Agents: Calm the skin.
- Amino Acid Derivatives: Provide skin protection and moisturization.
- Pro-Vitamin B5 (Panthenol): Moisturizes, soothes, and aids healing.
- Emollients (e.g., Squalane): Soften and smooth the skin.
- Preservatives: Ensure product safety and longevity.
- Fragrance: Adds scent to the product.
- Humectants (e.g., Sodium Hyaluronate): Attract and retain moisture.
- Peptides (e.g., Hydrolyzed Collagen): Aid in hydration and skin smoothing.
Hyaluronic Acid Boosting Serum Mechanism of Action
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