As a child, a natural rosy flush was perceived as a blessing, a convenient alternative to makeup during formative years. However, this flush proved to be persistent, intensifying with the slightest exposure to sunlight, heat, cold, or heightened emotions. What began as a perceived asset transformed into a source of frustration, leading to heat pimples and breakouts that left scars throughout the twenties and thirties. This personal journey, intertwined with a career in beauty writing and research, led to a suspicion of a more specific skin condition than mere sensitivity. A dermatologist's diagnosis confirmed the presence of rosacea.
Rosacea is an autoimmune condition, meaning its management is the primary focus, as a cure is not yet available. The condition manifests in various forms, with four common types: red skin, acne-like breakouts, skin thickening that can enlarge the nose, and dry, red eyes. Many individuals experience a combination of these. The author personally navigates a mix of the first two types, acknowledging that others may contend with all four.
The irony of having access to a constant stream of high-end skincare products while being advised to adopt a "less is more" approach was a cruel twist of fate. The temptation to experiment with products, such as an exfoliating jelly mask, led to the destruction of the skin barrier. This initiated a lengthy period of trial and error, seeking guidance from dermatologists and influencers on suitable active ingredients. Ingredients like niacinamide, often lauded for pigmentation and soothing properties, proved problematic, causing severe reactions. Similarly, azelaic acid, another ingredient commonly recommended for rosacea, exacerbated the redness. Despite the intention of using gentle solutions, the skin continued to rebel.
A consultation with a notoriously old-school dermatologist in Mumbai, characterized by long waits and brief, uninformative checkups, yielded confusion and angrier skin after a year and a half of treatment. The condition also presented social challenges, with the facial flush betraying emotions during professional interactions and intensifying significantly after social events involving alcohol.
In a significant departure from conventional advice, a more radical approach was adopted. This involved experimenting with gentle acid peels, including lactic acid, PHAs, and low concentrations of BHAs and AHAs. This strategy, which contradicted established recommendations against abrasive agents for rosacea, proved surprisingly beneficial, calming the skin. A dermatologist who understood the challenges of treating a "problem child" skin type took a chance with a clinical chemical peel, which the skin tolerated well. A course of isotretinoin, a controversial medication, was also undertaken, leading to a more "human" appearance.
A trip to Bangkok introduced sunscreens from Shiseido's Anessa and Biore, noted for their alcohol content to aid absorption. While typically advised against for rosacea due to potential irritation, the author, tired of the chalky residue from mineral sunscreens, found these formulations to be well-tolerated. This marked a shift towards cautiously incorporating products with fragrance but no essential oils. The introduction of apricot- and peach-shaded blushes, in various formulations, added a touch of color, transforming an appearance of anger into one of ethereal intensity, which paradoxically seemed to calm the skin.
The experience highlighted a significant paradox: products often deemed "villainous" for rosacea proved beneficial, while "hero" and "safe" products caused breakouts. This baffled dermatologists. Hormonal changes in the forties further complicated the situation, but a better understanding of individual skin needs emerged. The core realization was that skincare is intensely subjective, and a one-size-fits-all approach is ineffective.
The journey involved considerable product experimentation, with many items ending up unused or donated. This intuition-driven, error-prone process, while wasteful, paved the way for a future of hyper-personalized skincare. Advancements in technology are beginning to replicate this manual process of trial, error, and skin intuition, promising to reduce the guesswork, waste of products, money, and hope.
In this context, Hailey Bieber's skincare line, Rhode Skin, known for its hyper-curated approach, has introduced its first new product since its launch in June 2022: Glazing Milk, a ceramide-packed facial essence. This launch coincides with the brand's one-year anniversary.
Hailey Bieber had teased the launch on social media, showcasing a mysterious Rhode gray bottle. The forthcoming Glazing Milk was sampled and tested by NYLON.
Rhode Glazing Milk: Key Features and Details
Fast Facts:
- Brand: Rhode Skin
- New Product: Glazing Milk ceramide facial essence
- Price: $29
- Specifications: Certified Leaping Bunny cruelty-free, vegan, and gluten-free
- Target Audience: All skin types
- Launch Date: June 15
- Availability: rhodeskin.com
The Product:
The Glazing Milk features a key ingredient trio: a ceramide trio to restore skin barrier function, beta-glucan polysaccharides for moisture retention, and a blend of magnesium aspartate, zinc, and copper gluconate to help defend against environmental stressors and pollution-induced free radicals. Essentially, the Glazing Milk aims to provide instant hydration for a more luminous complexion and improve the skin barrier, enhancing the skin's ability to retain moisture for a bouncier, glowier, and healthier appearance over time.
How to Use:
The Rhode Skin Glazing Milk is designed to be integrated into both morning and nighttime routines, used in conjunction with existing Rhode products. Before application, shake the closed bottle. Dispense a "generous amount" into your hands - the bottle's design minimizes spillage and waste. Gently press the Milk into the skin. It is intended as the first step after cleansing, preceding the application of the Peptide Glazing Fluid and Barrier Restore Cream.
Worth It?
Priced at $29 for 4.7 oz, the Glazing Milk aligns with the pricing of other Rhode Skin products, all under $30. This positions it competitively against similar products such as the Laneige Cream Skin Toner and Moisturizer ($36 for 5.7 oz), Fenty Skin Fat Water Hydrating Milky Toner Essence ($34 for 5 oz), and Dr. Jart+ Ceramindin Skin Barrier Serum Toner ($39 for 5.07 oz). Rhode's offering is slightly more affordable for a marginally smaller volume, placing it within a comparable price bracket.
The Results:
The Glazing Milk presents a slightly thicker texture than anticipated, appearing nearly opaque white and more viscous than other "milky" essences, akin to half-and-half rather than skim milk. This thicker consistency is advantageous, preventing immediate absorption into the hands and allowing for more controlled application. It also suggests a slower rate of product consumption.
When added to the existing Peptide Glazing Fluid and Barrier Restore Cream regimen, the Glazing Milk did not produce dramatically different visible results. However, an enhanced feeling of hydration was noticeable. For individuals with normal to slightly dry skin, not particularly sensitive, or prone to rosacea or acne, the skin acts as a neutral testing ground. Increased retinol usage can sometimes lead to dryness or peeling, making moisture-boosting products like the Glazing Milk beneficial for preventing scaling.
Final Verdict:
The Glazing Milk is a welcome addition to the Rhode skincare routine. It functions as a booster for the other products, providing a perceptible, albeit not dramatically visible, enhancement. The three-step regimen maintains the non-sticky, non-greasy, natural finish of the original two products, with the added benefit of extending the "just-applied skincare feeling." For those with skin that tends towards dryness, the prolonged sensation of hydration is a significant advantage, contributing to a dewier morning appearance when used overnight. Individuals with very oily skin might find it too lubricating for daytime use, but it caters effectively to those seeking an intensely hydrated sensation. At under $30, it represents a worthwhile investment for those desiring an extra layer of hydration, aligning with Rhode's philosophy of providing effective, no-frills products for healthy-looking, hydrated skin.
The author's personal journey with rosacea has led to a repertoire of trusted products that promote glowing skin while managing sensitivity and breakouts. Having struggled with sensitive skin and a rosacea diagnosis in her early twenties, followed by hormonal imbalances and acne, a constant effort is made to balance redness and flare-ups without triggering breakouts. This has led to a realization that less is often more, and viral trends can be detrimental. The focus has shifted to prioritizing the skin barrier over harsh chemical exfoliants. For those with sensitive combination skin, makeup wipes were identified as a significant trigger due to their harshness and environmental impact. A preferred alternative is a cleansing balm, a staple for nearly a decade. A milky toner containing ceramides, beta-glucan, and zinc effectively calms redness and leaves the skin dewy and silky.
For brightening post-acne scarring, a specific vitamin C serum is consistently chosen for its ability to leave skin softer, reduce pore visibility, and avoid triggering sensitivity, a common issue with other vitamin C serums. Despite its cost, investing in an antioxidant serum is considered essential.
Recommended Products for Sensitive and Rosacea-Prone Skin:
- Beauty Pie Superdrops Brightening Niacinamide
- La Roche-Posay Toleriane Sensitive Rich Moisturiser For Sensitive Skin
- Supergoop!
- This toner, containing 3% brightening tranexamic acid and 5% PHA, helps exfoliate dead skin cells, while azelaic acid minimizes redness.
- The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%
- A balm containing a ceramide-building complex, glycerin, squalane, and Tasmania lanceolata extract, providing intense hydration without causing breakouts.