As a dedicated wearer of makeup, I had my cleansing routine well-established. A simple regimen of micellar water, followed by a gel cleanser and a hydrating moisturizer at night, was sufficient to maintain a happy and healthy skin microbiome. However, this routine needed an overhaul when I moved further from the city center, significantly increasing my commute time. More time spent on public transport, instead of walking or taking a short bus ride, meant that my skin was exposed to an increased opportunity for pathogens and particulate matter to adhere to it.
Anyone living in a city is acutely aware that the outdoor air is far from pristine, due to emissions from vehicles, heating systems, and construction work. A study from the University of Cambridge further highlighted that this issue is exacerbated on transport systems, where "pollution particles are suspended for long periods due to poor ventilation, particularly on station platforms."
It wasn't long before I noticed a decline in my skin's luminosity and an increase in bothersome comedones. My quick and easy cleansing regime was no longer adequate and required a complete reevaluation. Aware of the buzz surrounding double cleansing, I decided to put this method to the test.
What is Double Cleansing?
Double cleansing is a two-step skincare method that utilizes two distinct products: an oil-based cleanser and a water-based cleanser. The core principle is to thoroughly remove any lingering residue from makeup and SPF products, thereby preventing clogged pores and further skin irritation.
"A double cleanse is crucial when you're using heavy-duty products such as long-wear and waterproof makeup," explains dermatologist Dr. Beibei Du-Harpur. "The first cleanse must be designed to dissolve oil effectively. Some gel cleansers and micellar waters can work well for this. If a second wash is needed, it should always be with a gentle, hydrating cleanser to prevent stripping the skin of its essential natural oils and to ensure no residue remains."
Research conducted at Sichuan University suggests that using a face wash, as opposed to water alone, effectively cleanses the skin's surface. After a single use of a cleansing oil, only 5.8% of residue remained on the skin. In contrast, after using a regular cleanser to remove waterproof sunscreen, 37% of residue persisted. With just a splash of water, a significant 60% of residue remained on the skin's surface-a far from ideal outcome.
The Benefits of Double Cleansing
Consider double cleansing a reset button for your skin. By addressing both oil- and water-based impurities, this method ensures that every trace of dirt and oil is eliminated, leaving your skin refreshed without stripping its natural moisture. This thorough cleansing also enhances the absorption of subsequent skincare products like serums and moisturizers. Furthermore, clean skin is less prone to clogged pores and breakouts.
Dermatologist Dr. Jane Wu emphasizes that while the idea is to wash the face twice, the key lies in the types of cleansers used. "Double cleansing means cleansing your face twice, first with an oil-based product and then followed by a water-based cleanser," she explains. The initial oil-based cleanse is particularly effective for removing waterproof makeup and sunscreen. "It can also be helpful for individuals with oily skin as a first step to remove excess oil or sebum," Dr. Wu adds. This preparatory step allows water-based cleansers to work more effectively and enables other skincare products to penetrate the skin better.
Who Should Double Cleanse?
Not everyone needs to double cleanse, but if you wear sunscreen (which you should!), makeup, have oily skin, or live in a polluted environment, it can make a significant difference. It ensures the skin is completely clean, forming a vital foundation for a healthy complexion. Even if you're more of a bare-faced beauty, it can still be beneficial for deeply cleansing pores.
Dermatologist Dr. Rita V. Linkner notes that double cleansing is about using two separate types of cleansers. "First, [use] an oil-based cleanser or micellar water," suggests Dr. David Kim, a board-certified dermatologist. This initial step effectively removes makeup and sunscreen. For those who wear heavy makeup or have oily skin, an oil-based formula might be more effective than micellar water because "makeup and sebum are lipophilic [meaning they dissolve in oil]," Dr. Kim explains.
The second cleanse addresses impurities that may not be visible, such as pollutants and debris. Any gentle cleanser should suffice for this step. The keyword here is "gentle"; it's advisable to avoid formulas with active ingredients like exfoliating acids or benzoyl peroxide.
If you have oily skin and/or wear makeup daily, you might find that double cleansing every evening works well. If your skin isn't particularly oil-prone or you only occasionally wear makeup, daily double cleansing is likely unnecessary-a single gentle cleanser should suffice, according to Dr. Kim. Individuals with rosacea, eczema, or particularly sensitive or dry skin may want to avoid double cleansing altogether, as it "can be very, very stripping to the skin," warns Dr. Linkner. For this reason, regardless of skin type, double cleansing must always be followed by a proper moisturizer to immediately restore hydration.
How to Double Cleanse
The process of double cleansing is straightforward:
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Start with an oil-based cleanser: Apply an oil-based cleanser or cleansing balm to dry skin. Gently massage it in to break down makeup, sunscreen, and excess oils. This step is designed to dissolve the day's impurities.
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Rinse with lukewarm water: Use lukewarm water to rinse off the oil-based cleanser. Avoid using water that is too hot, as it can dry out your skin.
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Follow up with a water-based cleanser: Apply a water-based or gel cleanser suitable for your skin type to damp skin. This step removes sweat, dirt, and any remaining residue. Work it into a gentle lather and rinse thoroughly.
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Pat dry and prep for the rest of your routine: Lightly pat your face dry with a clean, soft towel. Your skin is now prepared for serums, moisturizers, and other treatments.
A study on cleansing oil effectiveness showed that after one use, only 5.8% of residue remained on the skin. Contrastingly, a regular cleanser left 37% residue after removing waterproof sunscreen, and water alone left a staggering 60%.
How Often Should You Double Cleanse?
You don't necessarily need to double cleanse twice a day. For most individuals, a single double cleanse in the evening to remove the day's buildup is sufficient. If your morning cleanse feels too heavy when doubled, opt for a single water-based cleanse in the AM. However, some may find it beneficial both morning and night, depending on their skin's specific needs and reaction.
As with any new skincare technique, it's important to start slowly. Try double cleansing and closely monitor your skin's reaction to determine the appropriate frequency for your needs. For example, heavy makeup wearers, those who use sunscreen daily, or individuals with oily, combination, or blemish-prone skin might find daily double cleansing suitable. If you have dry to normal skin, you may find that double cleansing every evening isn't necessary.
Is Double Cleansing Suitable for All Skin Types?
Yes, double cleansing is generally suitable for all skin types, provided you select products that match your specific needs. For oily skin, opt for oil-based cleansers that won't clog pores (look for non-comedogenic formulas) and gentle foaming or gel cleansers. Dry or sensitive skin types should choose nourishing oil-based cleansers or balms and hydrating, low-pH water-based cleansers.
Dr. Wu advises caution for those with acne-prone skin, as oil-based cleansers can potentially cause breakouts, especially if used alone. Regardless of skin type, it's important to avoid cleansers that are harsh, excessively drying, or contain fragrance. For dry, sensitive skin, Dr. Wu recommends gentle, unscented water-based cleansers, noting that cream cleansers are typically less drying than foaming ones. For oily, acne-prone skin, look for foaming water-based cleansers with active ingredients like salicylic acid, glycolic acid, or benzoyl peroxide. Combination skin can benefit from a foaming water-based cleanser, while normal skin can use a gentle, unscented water-based option. The choice between a cream or foaming cleanser often comes down to personal preference.
CeraVe's cleansers are formulated with beneficial ingredients like ceramides and jojoba oil to help maintain the skin's protective barrier during double cleansing. For dry or sensitive skin types, a fragrance-free, alcohol-free, allergy-tested, pH-balanced, and hydrating water-based cleanser, such as CeraVe Hydrating Cream-to-Foam Cleanser, is recommended. When choosing an oil-based cleanser for oily skin, a non-comedogenic cleansing balm with jojoba oil, like CeraVe Makeup Removing Cleanser Balm, can be an excellent option, as oil dissolves oil.
Double Cleanse Routine
The Korean Double Cleanse Method
The Korean double cleanse method follows the same principle as standard double cleansing but places a greater emphasis on technique. Each step should be massaged into the skin using gentle, upward motions to effectively dislodge impurities. Many K-beauty routines incorporate this method, and while it gained popularity in the United States about five years ago, it has a longer history as a core practice in Korean skincare.
When double cleansing, the first step involves an oil cleanser or cleansing balm, such as CeraVe Makeup Removing Cleanser Balm, which helps break down stubborn makeup and other oil-based impurities. Alternatively, a no-rinse micellar water, like CeraVe Hydrating Micellar Water, can be used. The second step utilizes a water-soluble cleanser to remove any residue from the first cleanser, along with water-based debris like dirt and sweat. This two-step process ensures all debris that has built up on the skin throughout the day is removed, making it an excellent choice for nighttime routines.
Best Double Cleansing Products
To effectively double cleanse, selecting the right products for each step is essential. Start with an oil-based formula to dissolve makeup and SPF, followed by a water-based cleanser to leave the skin fresh and ready for hydration.
Oil-Based Cleansers:
- Cleansing Oils: Typically lightweight and effective at removing makeup.
- Cleansing Balms: Solid at room temperature, these melt into an oil when massaged onto the skin and can be very hydrating.
- Micellar Water: While technically water-based, it contains micelles that attract oil and dirt, making it a gentler option for the first cleanse, especially for those with sensitive skin or who wear minimal makeup.
Water-Based Cleansers:
These remove water-soluble impurities and any residue left by the oil cleanser. Gentle formulas are key to avoid stripping the skin.
Cleansing balms, such as CeraVe Makeup Removing Cleanser Balm, are often favored as the initial step in a two-step cleansing routine. These products are formulated with nourishing oils that gently and effectively remove makeup, dirt, sunscreen, excess sebum, and other residue without stripping vital moisture. Cleansing balms typically have a rich, semi-solid consistency that melts onto the skin and creates a milky, cream-like texture when water is added. They work on the principle of "like dissolves like," meaning oil dissolves oil. Cleansing balms gently remove makeup and help eliminate build-up while offering moisturizing benefits and maintaining the skin's protective barrier, leaving it feeling soft, healthy, and clean.
CeraVe's Makeup Removing Cleanser Balm is an excellent first step in a double cleansing routine. It can be used twice daily to moisturize the skin and leave it feeling soft and comforted, while also helping to maintain the protective skin barrier. Developed with dermatologists and formulated with three essential ceramides and jojoba oil, this fragrance-free makeup cleansing balm is suitable for all skin types, including dry, oily, or sensitive skin. To apply, use fingertips or a spatula to take a pearl-sized amount of the balm and massage it onto dry skin using a circular motion. After working the cleansing balm over the entire face, rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water and pat dry, avoiding contact with the eyes.