Cap-and-ball black-powder revolvers have experienced a notable resurgence in popularity over the past couple of decades. This revival is largely attributed to their prominent features in several well-known Western television series, movies, and video games. Furthermore, they offer a relatively inexpensive and historically fascinating entry point into the world of firearms, and are, quite simply, a lot of fun to shoot. This guide aims to provide a thorough overview of cap-and-ball revolvers, detail the essential tools and components required for their use, and highlight some favored brands and types. So, keep your powder dry, and let's embark on this journey!
Choosing the Right Cap-and-Ball Revolver for Beginners
If your interest in cap-and-ball revolvers has been sparked by a particular TV show, movie, or video game, your initial inclination might be to acquire a revolver similar in style to the one that captured your imagination. This is a perfectly valid reason for purchasing a black powder firearm, and owning a gun that mirrors or is identical to your "fantasy gun" will likely lead to the most satisfying ownership experience. However, if you're new to the hobby and unsure about which model to select, we recommend considering a replica of either the Colt 1851 Navy (in .36 caliber, typically starting around $250 at the time of publication) or the Colt 1860 Army (in .44 caliber, typically starting around $300).
The .36 caliber Colt 1851 Navy is an excellent choice if you prefer a more square profile, an octagonal barrel, and desire lower recoil with more economical projectiles. Conversely, if you are drawn to the smoother, rounder aesthetics and the more substantial impact of the .44 caliber, the Colt 1860 Army is the better option. This style of revolver is, by a significant margin, the most popular cap-and-ball design in history, both among modern hobbyists and shooters, and for good reason. In our experience, the Colt design is considerably more forgiving of black powder fouling compared to the Remington, and the Colt grip shape and ergonomics, particularly the reach to the hammer and trigger, tend to fit a wider range of hand sizes more comfortably.
Essential Components for Loading Cap-and-Ball Revolvers
Once you have acquired a cap-and-ball revolver, the natural next step is to prepare for a trip to the range. It's important to understand that you cannot purchase pre-loaded ammunition for these historical firearms at most modern gun stores. They are aptly named "cap and ball" revolvers for a specific reason.
To load a cap-and-ball revolver, you will need the following core components:
- Black powder or a suitable substitute: This is the propellant that drives the projectile.
- Pure lead round balls or conical bullets: The projectile that will be fired down the barrel. For .36 caliber revolvers, a .375-inch ball is typical, while .44 caliber revolvers usually use a .451-inch ball. Some recommend using slightly oversized balls (e.g., .454 inch for a .44 caliber) to ensure a good seal.
- Percussion caps: These are the ignition source. Generally, #10 caps are suitable for most modern percussion revolvers, but #11 caps might fit better on certain guns.
- Lubricant: This can be either a grease applied over the projectile or a lubricated felt wad placed beneath it.
Alternatively, you can create and utilize paper cartridges, which combine loose powder and projectile into a single unit.
Understanding Paper Cartridges
One of the appealing aspects of cap-and-ball black-powder revolvers is their inherent simplicity and the historical loading and firing sequence. Historically, these revolvers were primarily loaded using paper cartridges. These were typically sold in wooden or paper packets containing six rounds. Each paper cartridge contained a conical lead bullet, a measured charge of black powder, and its nose was often dipped in beeswax or another suitable organic lubricant.
To load a paper cartridge, you would insert it, bullet-first, into a chamber from the front of the cylinder. The bullet would then be rammed into the chamber using either the attached loading lever or a separate tool. Following this, seven percussion caps would be pressed, one at a time, onto each nipple at the rear of the chambers. The percussion cap serves as the ignition source, initiating the combustion of the black powder when struck by the revolver's hammer. The paper itself was often nitrated to ensure it was fully consumed by the flames during firing.
Loose Powder and Ball Method
While some enthusiasts still enjoy the process of making and shooting paper cartridges, the majority of modern shooters opt for the convenience of loose powder and round lead balls. Often, a lubricated felt wad is placed between the powder charge and the ball, or a suitable grease or black powder lubricant is applied over the top of each seated ball.
This grease or lubricant serves two crucial functions. Firstly, a portion of it is propelled down the barrel with the projectile, helping to keep the fouling soft, which contributes to improved accuracy and easier cleaning. Some lubricant also transfers to the arbor or cylinder pin, aiding in smooth operation after multiple shots. Secondly, and perhaps more importantly, this lubricant can help prevent chain fires. A chain fire is a dangerous situation where flames from a fired chamber can enter adjacent chambers, unintentionally igniting additional rounds.
It's important to note that chain fires can occur from the rear (due to ill-fitting caps) or from the front (if chambers are damaged or projectiles do not adequately seal the chamber mouths).
How to Load a Cap-and-Ball Revolver
The following loading procedure is intended for the majority of modern cap-and-ball replica firearms, particularly those in the Colt or Remington Army/Navy patterns, which typically feature integral loading levers. This method assumes the use of loose powder and ball, as is common among cap-and-ball shooters today.
- Place the unloaded revolver on half-cock to allow the cylinder to rotate freely.
- Measure an appropriate charge of black powder (or a suitable substitute) using a powder measure and pour it into an empty chamber of the revolver. Always refer to the manufacturer's recommendations for maximum powder charges.
- If using lubricated felt wads, insert one into the chamber mouth atop the powder charge, ensuring it is not folded or crooked. If not using wads, proceed to the next step.
- Place a pure lead ball or conical bullet into the chamber mouth. Rotate the cylinder until the chamber you are loading aligns with the revolver's rammer/loading lever.
- Using the loading lever, firmly press the ball or bullet into the chamber. Ensure the powder charge is compressed and the projectile is seated below the chamber mouth.
- If you did not use lubricated felt wads, smear some appropriate black powder grease or lubricant over the projectile in each loaded chamber.
- Repeat steps 1-6 until all desired chambers are loaded.
- Place a well-fitting percussion cap onto the nipple at the rear of each loaded chamber.
- Lower the hammer onto an empty chamber (preferred) or onto a functioning safety pin or safety notch located between chambers.
Note: If you are loading a revolver without an integral loading lever, such as a Paterson revolver or a Colt 1849 Wells Fargo model, you will require a specific loading tool designed for that firearm, or you may need to remove the cylinder and use a loading stand or other appropriate tools.
Warning: We do not recommend the non-historical practice of carrying spare, loaded, and capped cylinders for faster reloads. Dropping a loaded and capped cylinder can easily discharge one or more chambers, posing a significant safety risk.
How to Load a Percussion Revolver
Essential Tools and Gear for Shooting Cap-and-Ball Revolvers
While the inconvenience of loading is a factor, you don't require an extensive array of specialized gear or tools to load and shoot cap-and-ball revolvers. However, certain items significantly enhance the experience and are considered essential.
Must-Have Tools:
- Powder Flask and Powder Measure: For those dedicated to a specific style and caliber of revolver, a powder flask with a pre-set spout can serve as a powder measure. However, most experienced shooters recommend using a separate, adjustable powder measure in conjunction with a flask for greater versatility and safety.
- Nipple Wrench: Essential for cleaning your black powder revolver after each use, as the nipples must be removed and cleaned. You can purchase an appropriate nipple wrench or fashion one from a 5mm socket.
- Good Hollow-Ground Screwdrivers: High-quality gunsmith-type screwdrivers or driver tips are crucial for disassembling your revolver for proper cleaning. Using standard hardware store screwdrivers can quickly damage the screws due to their wedge-shaped tips.
Additional Tools for Enhanced Experience:
- Snail Capper or Other Capping Tool: Devices like the Tedd Cash snail-shaped universal capper simplify the process of placing percussion caps. Various inline cappers and 3D-printed star cappers are also available.
- Nipple Pick: Useful for clearing any obstructions in the nipple's flash hole, especially when in the field.
- Wedge Puller: For Colt revolvers, a wedge puller or brass drift can be invaluable for disassembly and reassembly.
- Brass or Nylon Hammer: Helpful for removing and reinstalling tight wedges on Colt revolvers without causing damage.
- Possibles Bag or Pouch: A container to organize and transport all your tools, components, and other necessary items for a range trip. This could be anything from a fishing tackle box to a dedicated leather pouch.
- Loading Stand: These stands support the revolver during loading, making the process easier, or, in the case of cylinder press-type stands, allow for consistent loading of the cylinder when removed from the firearm.
Cap-and-Ball Safety: Loading 5 vs. 6 Shots
A common question among cap-and-ball revolver users is whether it is safe to load all six chambers or if it's better to load only five. Historically, these revolvers were often carried with all chambers loaded, with the hammer resting on a safety pin (Colt designs) or in a safety notch (Remington designs) between chambers.
Today, many shooters prefer to carry their cap-and-ball revolvers with one chamber intentionally left empty, allowing the hammer to rest on this unloaded chamber. This is widely considered the safest method for carrying these firearms. Historical cowboy-shooting and competition organizations, such as SASS, mandate that 6-shot revolvers be loaded with only 5 shots, with the hammer lowered onto an empty chamber.
If your revolver's safety pins and hammer are in good condition and properly fitted, utilizing these mechanisms for carrying a fully loaded cylinder may be acceptable. However, it is crucial to note that many modern Remington replicas and even some Colt models may have components that are not perfectly fitted. Oversized hammers or undersized safety notches on Remingtons, or potentially compromised safety pins on Colts (which can break or bend if the cylinder is dropped), necessitate careful inspection. If there is any doubt about the proper functioning of these safety mechanisms, it is strongly recommended to load only five rounds and rest the hammer on the empty chamber.
Powders and Propellants for Black-Powder Revolvers
It is absolutely critical to understand that standard, modern smokeless gunpowder must never be used in original or replica black-powder revolvers. These firearms were designed for, and can only be safely fired with, historical propellants such as genuine black powder or specific modern black-powder substitutes.
While genuine black powder is the traditional choice, modern substitutes like Hodgdon's Pyrodex P (for pistols) or Triple 7 can also perform well and are often more readily available. Note that Hodgdon advises reducing powder charges by 15% when using Triple 7 by volume compared to black powder. Pyrodex P can generally be substituted without altering the charge volume.
Understanding Black Powder
For over 400 years, gunpowder was essentially a uniform mixture known today as black powder. It is a relatively simple combination of charcoal, potassium nitrate (saltpeter), and sulfur. The sulfur and charcoal act as fuels, while saltpeter serves as an oxidizer, accelerating the burning process.
Black powder is classified as a low explosive. The US Department of Transportation categorizes it as a Division 1.1 Explosive Material. Modern smokeless gunpowder and black-powder substitutes may fall under different classifications (e.g., Division 1.3C or 1.4C). This difference in classification means genuine black powder carries additional transportation and storage requirements not applicable to other modern gunpowders. Consequently, it can be challenging to find black powder readily available in local gun shops, as sellers must maintain specialized storage areas. The most convenient and often least expensive way to purchase real black powder today is through online retailers.
Starter Kit Contents and Considerations
A typical black powder revolver starter kit aims to provide the fundamental items needed to begin shooting. Beyond the kit itself, you will generally need to acquire black powder and percussion caps separately.
A common starter kit might include:
- Lead round balls (e.g., .375 for .36 caliber or .451 for .44 caliber)
- Lubricated felt wads or specialized seals (like Wonder Lube Seals)
- A black powder flask
- A basic nipple wrench
- A brass adjustable powder measure
- A percussion capper
Specialized items like Wonder Lube Seals are designed to be placed at the end of cylinder chambers, acting as a barrier to prevent chamber crossfires. These pre-formed seals help create a good seal when pressed on top of the seated ball. Wonder Lube itself is often made from natural products and can help protect against corrosion and allow for shooting consecutive shots without immediate cleaning between them.
Important Note on Starter Kits: Some experienced shooters advise caution regarding "starter kits." They often contain items of sub-par or average quality that may wear out quickly or not perform optimally. It is generally recommended to invest in brand-name components, such as a high-quality powder flask (e.g., Pedersoli), which can last a lifetime. Similarly, ensure you purchase the correct nipple wrench that precisely fits your specific revolver.
Historical Context and Types of Cap-and-Ball Revolvers
When many Americans think of single-action revolvers, images of the Wild West and iconic shootouts often come to mind. However, the history of the revolver actually begins earlier, with Samuel Colt filing a patent for the first revolving firearm in 1836. While the 1836 model was not immediately successful, leading to the temporary closure of Colt's Patent Arms Manufacturing by 1842, the burgeoning Western Expansion, the Civil War, and numerous Indian Wars created a demand for firearms capable of firing multiple rounds without frequent reloading. By 1847, Colt was back in business, and the trajectory of firearm design was irrevocably altered.
For those seeking to recreate a piece of history, cap-and-ball revolvers offer an excellent starting point. These firearms generally fall into two main categories: the Colt style and the Remington style. While numerous smaller manufacturers produced revolvers of various designs in the 1800s, Colt and Remington designs accounted for approximately 90% of period revolvers and profoundly influenced subsequent revolver development.
Colt vs. Remington Design Differences
A quick visual distinction between Colt and Remington revolvers can be made by observing the presence or absence of a top strap â the portion of the frame located above the cylinder. Colt revolvers typically lack this top strap, while Remington revolvers feature one. This structural difference contributes to the overall rigidity and strength of the firearm.
In addition to these main design variations, different frame materials were utilized across various models and time periods. Modern replicas are also offered in a range of materials, including blued and case-color hardened steel, brass, and even modern stainless steel.
Remington revolvers also possess a distinct advantage with a hammer groove between each cylinder. This design feature allows for the safe practice of loading all six cylinders, as the hammer can rest in the groove of an empty chamber, a significant benefit for a firearm that is inherently slower to reload than modern counterparts.
Furthermore, the cylinder on Remington revolvers could be removed more quickly from the frame. While this did not necessarily speed up the reloading of a single cylinder, it allowed for the rapid insertion of a spare, pre-loaded cylinder, making the pistol ready for action almost instantly. This feature represented a substantial advantage for soldiers and others in critical situations.
Loading and Firing Procedures
Loading a cap-and-ball revolver is generally a straightforward process, though there can be variations in recommended steps among enthusiasts. Some shooters may forgo wads between the powder and ball, prefer slightly oversized balls for a better seal, or omit lubricant at the chamber mouth, which is crucial for preventing chain fires.
However, for maximizing safety and the longevity of the firearm, it is advisable to follow all recommended steps. Research suggests that the wad placed between the powder and ball plays a significant role in minimizing the possibility of chain fires. While grease or "bore butter" is also used to seal each cylinder, its primary role may be to slow barrel fouling and ease cleaning.
The general order of operations for loading is as follows:
- Ensure the revolver is unloaded and place it on half-cock.
- Fire the revolver in a safe direction to clear any residual oil from the nipples, which could contaminate the powder or caps.
- Remove spent caps.
- Measure and pour the appropriate powder charge into each cylinder.
- Place a ball or bullet onto the mouth of the cylinder.
- Using the loading lever, firmly seat the ball or bullet onto the powder charge.
- Cover the mouth of each cylinder with a coating of heavy lubricant. This lubricates the bullet as it travels down the barrel, potentially increasing accuracy and reducing fouling, and crucially, it helps prevent sparks from one chamber from igniting others.
For those new to black powder firearms, using alternatives like Pyrodex pellets can simplify the process, reduce mess, and offer a more foolproof experience, albeit at a higher cost. Using wads is also highly recommended for ensuring ignition in one cylinder does not affect neighboring ones. Employing a slightly oversized ball, such as a .454-inch ball in a .44 caliber revolver, can create a superior seal.
Thompson/Center Bore Butter is a popular lubricant choice for reducing the "tar-like" fouling common in black powder firearms. While some use inexpensive alternatives like Crisco vegetable shortening, its effectiveness may vary.
The process of ramming the ball into the cylinder requires a decent amount of force and technique. Utilizing an accessory press designed for loading cylinders separately from the gun can make this task significantly easier.
Establishing a distinct and consistent order of operations is key to successful loading. For example, load all powder charges, then place all wads, and then tamp them down. Adhering to the same sequence each time ensures reliability.
The Shooting Experience and Maintenance
The experience of firing a black powder revolver is unique and engaging. The one-handed operation of cocking the hammer, the stance, and sighting down the notch in the hammer all contribute to a distinctive shooting session. Recoil is often surprisingly manageable, and accuracy can exceed expectations, with many capable of tight groupings at 25 yards with proper load development.
The sights on cap-and-ball revolvers generally fall into two categories: fixed sights and adjustable sights. Fixed sights, typically comprising a rounded blade front sight and a notch rear sight, are more rugged and cost-effective. Adjustable sights offer greater precision for windage and elevation adjustments.
Beyond the shooting itself, the smell of the smoke and the visual cloud that forms after firing all six chambers add to the sensory experience. The ultimate enjoyment of firing a black powder pistol often stems, in part, from the entire process, including the loading and even the cleaning of the weapon.
Cleaning Black-Powder Revolvers
Cleaning black-powder revolvers is a relatively straightforward, albeit meticulous, task. The process typically involves:
- Ensuring the gun is unloaded and removing the cylinder.
- Removing the nipples and soaking them in a cleaning solution.
- Swabbing out each chamber in the cylinder with a patch soaked in a quality cleaning solution.
- Cleaning the barrel, potentially using a solvent-soaked brush for heavy fouling.
- Wiping down all exposed metal parts with a solvent-soaked rag to remove powder residue.
- Applying a light coat of protective oil to all metal parts to prevent rusting.
- Scrubbing the nipples with a small brush and cleaning the flash holes with a pick.
Using a cleaning rod with nylon brushes for .45 caliber pistols and a spray jug of windshield washer fluid as an expedient cleaner can be helpful.
Cap-and-ball revolvers bring history to life, connecting shooters to eras like the Civil War, Western Expansion, and the rugged days of the frontier. Whether through their historical use by figures like Doc Holliday and Wild Bill Hickok, or their modern portrayal in media, these antique replicas offer a tangible link to the past. The opportunity to shoot these pieces of history is well worth the effort, making them a highly recommended addition to any firearm collection.