As the wellness movement has increased bodily awareness and inspired us to embrace traditionally less-thought-of parts of our physical being, underarm care has emerged as a new category. This is particularly intriguing as the past two years has, for many of us, brought on an abundance of sweat stress. The good news is, perspiration is absolutely a good thing-especially now.
“For humans, the physiology of sweating is crucial to maintaining a safe and healthy body temperature,” says Alicia Zalka, M.D., dermatologist and founder of Surface Deep. She explains that we offset excess heat from our bodies by way of our built-in cooling mechanism. “When the body produces too much heat, sweat droplets from within sweat glands are produced,” she continues. “Through the portals of microscopic sweat ducts, moisture permeates on the skin surface. As the moisture of sweat meets the air by evaporation, it releases [and] heat and cooling takes place.”
Understanding Body Odor
As important as sweating is to helping the body stay balanced, its outcomes aren’t always desirable-especially when there’s an excess of body odor. But what many don’t realize about sweat is that at its source, it has no smell. “It gains odor when the bacteria known as corynebacterium present on the skin interacts with the sweat and oils creating the smell we know as ‘body odor,’” explains Dr. Zalka. That’s where underarm care, from thorough cleansing and exfoliating to a refreshing deodorant, comes in: to not only keep odor under control, but also contribute to your body’s overall well-being.
The Importance of Underarm Cleansing
Underarms are a part of the body that’s considered an intertriginous zone, which means that due to the folding of the skin, it’s prone to being moist due to lack of airflow. This area can often harbor particular bacteria and fungal-yeast organisms. “Proper care and cleansing is important to reduce unwanted moisture and keep the natural balance of the microbiome,” explains Dr. Zalka. “Yet, doing so must be approached delicately.”
She recommends washing your underarms once a day (unless you have a very athletic or physically demanding job or hobby) and alternating between different pH-balanced body or underarm cleansers. One such option is the Kaia Naturals Underarm Bar, which is powered by detoxifying charcoal. “When you address odor-causing bacteria, you will push your odor-free hours much farther. It’s a necessary step for a natural-deodorant routine, especially as it does not prevent sweat; it stops you from smelling.”
Recommended Cleansing Products:
- Eucerin Advanced Cleansing Body and Face Cleanser
- Kaia Naturals The Underarm Bar
- Glossier Body Hero Cleanse + Exfoliate Duo
- Goshi Exfoliating Shower Towel
Exfoliation: A Key to Odor Control
Like the face, underarms can be impacted by skin sensitivity and irritation. According to Dr. Zalka, “too much oil, clogged pores, pimples (known as folliculitis), and a buildup of dead, dull, and sometimes discolored skin cells,” are all reasons exfoliation should extend below the neck.
There are two main types of exfoliants:
- Physical exfoliants: These are masks or scrubs that manually remove dead skin cells and debris.
- Chemical exfoliants: These include toners that harness the power of AHAs (alpha-hydroxy acids), BHAs (beta-hydroxy acids), and PHAs (poly-hydroxy acids) to gently dissolve the buildup.
To avoid irritation, Dr. Zalka favors chemical exfoliants. She recommends using a glycolic toner (no more than 5% glycolic acid) to slough away dead skin and improve overall tone and texture. Alternatively, exfoliating deodorant pads such as Surface Deep’s innovative Anti-Odorant Pads, which combine fruit-based glycolic acids with probiotics and antioxidant-rich ingredients, can inhibit odor-causing bacteria and reset the skin’s microbiome.
How Exfoliation Works Against Body Odor:
Body odor is primarily caused by bacteria feeding on sweat and dead skin cells. Exfoliation removes these dead skin cells and debris, which reduces the food source for odor-causing bacteria. Additionally, chemical exfoliants like AHAs and BHAs can lower the skin's pH. Odor-causing bacteria thrive in a higher pH environment (around 6.5 in the underarms), and a lower pH makes it difficult for them to survive.
“Acids such as glycolic and salicylic work as effective natural deodorants. Their low pH makes it impossible for odor-causing bacteria to survive on your skin, leaving you feeling fresh and confident,” the text explains. This process not only helps control odor but can also brighten the skin, smooth texture, and clear up ingrown hairs or razor burn.
Recommended Exfoliating Products:
- Surface Deep Antiodorant Pads
- Soft Services Buffing Bar Microcrystal Exfoliant
- Megababe Happy Pits Detoxifying Underarm Mask
- Lavanila The Healthy Underarm Detox Mask
Gentle Shaving Practices
If you choose to shave your underarms, proper technique is crucial to prevent irritation. “If not done on a smooth surface, you are skiing moguls, and it is a bumpy experience,” explains Dr. Zalka. “You want to glide down to prevent razor ouches.”
For a smooth shave:
- Use a shave gel or a moisturizing cleanser in a warm shower.
- To prevent irritation and ingrown hairs, prep the night before by applying a thin layer of moisturizer to the area.
- Change your razor every one to two weeks to ensure a sharp, effective blade.
Recommended Shaving Products:
- Flamingo Shave Set
- Athena Club Smooth Skin Trio
- Fur Moisturizing Shave Cream
- Ursa Major Stellar Shave Cream
Moisturizing for Underarm Health
Just like your face and body, your underarms need hydration to look and feel their best. Since this area tends to be moist, Dr. Zalka recommends using a pH-balanced underarm or body lotion once or twice a week, or more as needed for dryness.
“If you notice irritation, take a break from shaving and deodorant,” she advises.
Recommended Moisturizing Products:
- PiperWai Underarm Oil
- Humanrace Humidifying Body Cream
- Billie Dry-Bye Body Lotion
- Obagi Medical IDR Exfoliating and Hydrating Lotion
Conscious Deodorant Choices
When navigating the deodorant market, Dr. Zalka’s foremost advice is to listen to your body. “If your deodorant is causing irritation or leaving too much residue on your skin and clothing, choose another.”
For optimal underarm care, consider opting for deodorants that are “clean and simple,” meaning fragrance-free, and avoid phthalates, parabens, sulfates, or dyes. “Look for products with the fewest chemicals,” she says. Additionally, unless you need to block moisture due to excessive sweating (known as hyperhidrosis), Dr. Zalka advises avoiding aluminum in your deodorant. “Aluminum-containing antiperspirants are lifesavers for some, but we don’t all need aluminum in our day-to-day underarm care,” she explains. “It is possible to prevent odor without blocking sweat.”
Understanding the Science Behind Body Odor and pH
Body odor is a complex issue influenced by genetics, sweat composition, and the skin's microbiome. The ABCC11 gene plays a significant role; a common variation in East Asian populations leads to reduced production of odor-causing compounds in apocrine sweat glands, making them less prone to body odor.
The pH of underarm skin is naturally higher (around 5.5-6.5) than other parts of the body, creating an environment where odor-causing bacteria can thrive. Acidic exfoliants, typically with a pH of 3-4, can lower the skin's pH, making it inhospitable for these bacteria.
A lab experiment demonstrated that the strongest smell was produced at pH 6, but at pH 5 and below, there was no detectable smell. This highlights how altering the skin's pH can directly impact odor production.
Key Chemical Exfoliants for Odor Control:
- Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs): Water-soluble exfoliants like glycolic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, and malic acid. They work on the skin's surface to remove dead cells and can lower pH.
- Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs): Oil-soluble exfoliants like salicylic acid. They can penetrate deeper into pores to clear oil and debris.
These acids can be used as an alternative or a supplement to deodorant, helping to reduce odor-causing bacteria and improve skin tone.
pH
Exfoliation as a Deodorant Alternative
Many users claim that using acid exfoliants, such as The Ordinary 7% Glycolic Toning Solution, can help keep body odor at bay. These acids work by inhibiting odor-causing bacteria due to their low pH.
“In general, body odor is caused by the growth of certain bacteria found in sweat. Acids such as glycolic and salicylic work as effective natural deodorants. Their low pH makes it impossible for odor-causing bacteria to survive on your skin, leaving you feeling fresh and confident,” the text explains.
When adding chemical exfoliants to your routine, it's important to:
- Choose products specifically formulated for sensitive areas.
- Use them on clean skin, ideally after showering.
- Start slowly and with low concentrations to avoid irritation.
- Pause if you experience any irritation.
Some products are designed as exfoliants that can be used in lieu of deodorant, offering benefits like inhibiting bacteria, brightening hyperpigmentation, and smoothing skin texture.
Addressing Specific Underarm Concerns
Exfoliation can also help with common underarm issues:
- Hyperpigmentation: Glycolic acid helps slough off dead skin cells, revealing brighter, more even-toned skin underneath.
- Ingrown Hairs and Razor Burn: AHAs and BHAs can penetrate pores, smooth texture, and reduce inflammation associated with ingrown hairs and razor bumps.
It is important not to exfoliate broken, irritated, or freshly shaved skin.
Groin Area Care
The groin area, much like the underarms, can experience sweating and requires careful attention. Washing with plain warm water or gentle, fragrance-free, pH-balanced products is recommended. Exfoliating the pubic area with gentle AHA/BHA products can help restore microbial balance, reduce odor, even out skin tone, and minimize razor bumps.
The Role of Laundry
It’s also important to remember that bacteria can colonize on clothing. Washing shirts and undergarments regularly helps remove these bacteria, further contributing to overall freshness.