Gentlemen, the world of makeup is no longer exclusive to women. This guide provides expert insights and step-by-step techniques for men looking to enhance their natural features, achieve a polished look, or explore gender expression through makeup. We've enlisted the help of professional makeup artists to break down the essentials, from selecting the right products for different skin types to mastering specific application techniques. Whether you're a beginner or looking to refine your skills, these tips and tricks will help you navigate the realm of men's makeup with confidence.
Understanding the Basics: Preparation and Foundation
Before diving into specific techniques, establishing a solid base is crucial for a natural and long-lasting makeup application. This involves proper skin preparation and the strategic use of foundation and concealer.
STEP 1: Protect and Build from the Base
The first step in any makeup routine is to prepare your skin. Apply a small amount of moisturizer for men and rub it thoroughly into your face, ensuring all areas are covered. This step is vital to prevent an unnatural or "fake" look, helping to maintain your inherent masculinity. A well-moisturized canvas ensures that subsequent makeup products blend seamlessly.
STEP 2: Foundation for Men
Foundation is used to create an even skin tone and conceal minor imperfections. For a natural look, it's recommended to choose a foundation that is no more than one shade lighter or darker than your natural skin tone. This ensures the makeup goes unnoticed while still providing a flawless appearance. Apply the foundation evenly across your face, neck, eyelids, and hairline using your fingertips. The warmth of your fingers helps the product absorb better, leading to a more natural finish. Alternatively, a foundation brush can be used, but makeup sponges are generally not recommended as they can absorb too much product and lead to a patchy application. It is also important to rub the foundation through any facial hair to avoid a stark contrast between makeup and hair.
STEP 3: Concealer for Men
Concealer is your secret weapon for tackling specific imperfections such as acne scars, pimples, and blemishes. Use an opaque concealer with a makeup brush or the product's built-in wand. A small amount of concealer goes a long way, so apply it sparingly. For best results, use a nylon brush or a cream-based concealer, smearing and blending the product thoroughly into the skin. Concentrate on areas like the T-zone and eyelids, or any area you wish to conceal. Ensure the concealer is well-blended to match your skin tone and foundation seamlessly.
Defining Features: Highlighting and Contouring
Highlighting and contouring are techniques used to add dimension and shape to the face, accentuating masculine features. These methods involve the strategic use of darker and lighter shades to create illusions of shadow and light.
STEP 4: Men's Highlighting and Contouring
To add texture and definition, contouring is essential. This technique helps to create a rugged, masculine look by defining bone structure. A light ash brown eyeshadow is recommended for contouring, even if not specifically for the eyes. Use a slightly angled contouring brush to apply the eyeshadow under each cheekbone in a back-and-forth motion. This creates a shadow effect that enhances the natural hollows of your cheeks. Apply the same technique to your temples, blending the product towards the edge of your face and down to your hairline to ensure a smooth transition. For added definition, apply the contour shade under your jawline to create the illusion of a stronger, more defined jaw. Remember, less is more, and gradual application with careful blending is key to avoiding an overly made-up appearance.
Focusing on the Eyes: Subtle Enhancements
Eye makeup for men can range from subtle enhancements to more defined looks, focusing on defining the eyes without appearing overly dramatic.
STEP 5: How to Apply Men's Eye Makeup?
This step reiterates the importance of contouring for facial definition, using a light ash brown eyeshadow applied under the cheekbones, to the temples, and along the jawline. When specifically addressing the eyes, the aim is to subtly enhance their shape and definition. A light matte shade, just a touch lighter than your natural skin tone, can be used to brighten the eye area. For those with downturned eyes, applying a second shade, such as a mauvy brown matte, at the outer corner and blending it slightly higher than the natural eye crease can create an uplifting effect. Some find a "7" shape application helpful in lieu of a traditional outer V. Experimentation is encouraged to find what works best. While liner on the lower lashes can sometimes make eyes appear heavy, using a subtle shade at the lash line, especially with a powder-based liner, can enhance the eyes. Consider switching up liner colors for a subtle twist.
STEP 6: Bossing Up Your Brows
Men's eyebrows tend to be bushier and may lack the defined shape often seen in female eyebrows. To enhance them, use an eyebrow powder that matches your natural brow color. Apply it with a small, angled brush to fill in any gaps, making the brows appear thicker and more defined. Apply the product in a straight line, working against the natural curve of your brow to create a more structured look. Eyebrow gel can also be used to maintain shape and hold. For a scruffier look, eyebrow powder can be dusted over existing facial hair using circular motions, though this is less effective on very short stubble.
STEP 8: Manscara
For a subtle enhancement of the lashes, a tinted brow gel or brown manscara can be used. Apply a small amount to the roots of your lashes, ensuring each lash is treated separately. Work the product through your lashes with the brush, blinking as you apply to distribute it evenly. This can add a touch of definition and volume without appearing obvious.
STEP 9: Guyliner
Eyeliner for men, often referred to as "guyliner," should be applied subtly. Use a small amount of guyliner and apply it to the bottom lash line, ensuring it is even and not clumpy. A powder-based liner or a dark eyeshadow applied with a fine brush can provide a softer effect. The goal is to define the eye shape without creating a harsh or overly dramatic line. Applying eyeliner right at the lash line is key for a natural look.
Finishing Touches and Optional Enhancements
Beyond the core techniques, several optional steps can further refine a man's makeup look.
STEP 7: Bronze If You Wish
If you desire a natural sun-kissed look, a bronzer can be used. Choose a mineral powder or bronzing powder that does not contain glitter or sparkles for an everyday, natural appearance. Using a larger makeup brush, apply the bronzer lightly above your cheekbones, over your nose, and a small amount on your eyelids, forehead, and chin. This adds warmth and a healthy glow to the skin.
STEP 10: Don't Forget the Lips!
Hydrated lips are essential for a polished look, especially in harsh weather conditions. Apply a lip balm regularly to prevent dryness and cracking. A good lip serum can keep your lips moisturized and looking attractive without being costly.
Advanced Techniques and Special Considerations
Some individuals may use makeup for specific purposes, such as stage performance, gender affirmation, or achieving an androgynous aesthetic. These situations might call for more pronounced techniques.
For Stage and Performance
For men needing to appear masculine on stage, makeup artists recommend accentuating angular features. This involves using darker shades to create shadows around the cheekbones, jawline, and forehead, and defining the nose. A light dusting of powder can set the makeup and create a flawless finish. For specific looks, like a cat eye, layering colors and using a sharp eyeliner can achieve a dramatic effect.
Gender Affirmation and Transition
For transgender men or individuals questioning their gender identity, makeup can be a powerful tool for self-expression and affirming their masculine identity. Techniques like contouring the nose and jawline can help individuals see the man they know they are inside, even before medical transition. Filling in and shaping eyebrows can also significantly contribute to a more masculine appearance and a sense of self-recognition.
Androgynous Style
For non-binary individuals or those aiming for an androgynous look, subtle contouring and eyebrow definition can be key. These techniques can help individuals feel more comfortable with their presentation and align their external appearance with their internal sense of self.
Subtle 'undercover' make-up for men: a groomed, healthy look | Charlotte Tilbury tutorial
The "makeup-less" look, where less is truly more, is often the goal for men's makeup. The key is to use products sparingly and blend them seamlessly to enhance natural features without appearing as though makeup is being worn.
When contouring for a traditionally masculine look, angle contour lines downward to complement the natural downward-facing features of the male face. Do not be discouraged if it takes several tries to achieve a natural look; practice is essential.
For those looking to enhance their eyes, a subtle application of eyeliner along the lash line can draw attention to the eyes and brows. Powder-based liners offer a softer finish. Using eyebrow powder on existing facial hair can make it appear thicker and more scruffy, but ensure it blends naturally into the neck and cheeks.
The cosmology industry is increasingly embracing men, offering a wide range of products and techniques for grooming and pampering. Makeup for men does not have to be daunting, and achieving fabulous masculine looks is attainable with the right products and techniques.
