Microneedling is a cosmetic procedure that encourages collagen production using tiny, sterilized needles. It may help smooth, firm, and tone skin and improve the appearance of scars, acne, and wrinkles. This treatment aims to generate new collagen and skin tissue to smooth, firm, and tone skin. Microneedling is mostly used on the face and may reduce the appearance of acne, scars, dark spots, wrinkles, and large pores.
The procedure is minimally invasive, requiring little to no downtime, and is considered safe for most people who are in overall good health. However, it may not be safe for individuals using certain acne medications, those with active acne, or those with moderate to severe psoriasis or eczema. Minor redness and irritation for a few days after the procedure are common.
Understanding Microneedling
Microneedling, also known as collagen induction therapy, is a cosmetic procedure that treats skin concerns by stimulating collagen production. It involves creating micro-punctures in the skin using miniature, sterilized needles. According to the American Academy of Dermatology Association (AAD), the skin’s healing process after microneedling can help reduce the appearance of scars and dark spots and improve skin elasticity. While more research is needed, a 2021 review suggests microneedling may promote hair growth in some people with alopecia.
The technique involves using multiple tiny, sterile needles to puncture the skin and cause physical trauma. This trauma prompts the dermis, a deeper layer of skin, to rebuild. Microneedling may help address many skin-related complaints, including wrinkles, scarring, acne, alopecia, skin pigmentation issues, stretch marks, rosacea, and loose skin (such as after weight loss or liposuction). It may also help rejuvenate the skin.
Microneedling increases the production of collagen and other healing factors by causing trauma to the skin. Collagen is an essential protein that helps keep the skin looking youthful, with a firm, smooth, and stretchy texture. Aging causes the decline of collagen in the skin, contributing to wrinkles and other signs of aging. Skin can also lose collagen due to injuries, such as acne scarring, stretch marks, or other scars.
It is important to realize that microneedling is not a quick fix, as it involves the growth of new skin. It can take several months for a person to see the full results of the procedure. A 2018 systematic review found that microneedling is a safe and effective way to rejuvenate skin and treat scars and wrinkles. The researchers acknowledged, however, that determining whether microneedling is a viable treatment option in all cases will require further research. A press release from the American Academy of Dermatology also states that people can expect a reduction in the “appearance of large pores, fine lines and wrinkles, scars, and stretch marks.”
Dermapen Micro Needling Treatment of Acne Scars Animation by Needlelogic com
Benefits of Microneedling
Microneedling has gained popularity for its growing list of benefits. It is said to rejuvenate and plump the skin with minimal discomfort and downtime, and it can be adjusted to fit each person’s needs. The procedure is recommended for various skin conditions that haven't responded to other types of treatments and can also be considered an anti-aging procedure.
Key Benefits Include:
- Improvement in the appearance of scars, including acne scars, fine lines, and wrinkles
- Reduction in the appearance of enlarged pores
- Improvement in the appearance of hyperpigmentation, or dark spots
- More uniform skin tone
- Enhanced skin elasticity
- Improvement in the appearance of stretch marks
- Promotion of hair growth in people with alopecia
- Improved absorption of skincare products
Microneedling is less expensive than laser therapy and may work better for some people. Laser treatments involve heat, which can affect skin pigmentation. People with darker skin tones may prefer microneedling to laser therapy because of safety concerns associated with certain types of laser treatments on skin of color. Research on the effectiveness and safety of laser treatment on darker skin tones is still lacking.
The FDA has cleared microneedling devices for use on women and men aged 22 and older as a treatment to improve the appearance of acne scars on the face, wrinkles around the eyes and other parts of the face and neck, and abdominal scars.
How Microneedling Works
The pinpricks from microneedling cause slight injury to the skin, and the skin responds by making new collagen-rich tissue. This new skin tissue is more even in tone and texture. It’s common for the skin to lose collagen with age or injury. By encouraging the skin to make new tissue, additional collagen may help make the skin firmer.
Dermatologists may recommend microneedling with other treatments, such as topical serums, radiofrequency, or platelet-rich plasma. A dermatologist can explain additional treatment options and their estimated costs.
The procedure involves using a professional microneedling device, often pen-shaped or a roller, to create microscopic channels in the deeper layers of the skin. While the small pricks made under the skin are not visible and will not leave any scars, they are enough to cause the body to enter its defense mode and activate an increase in collagen to heal the trauma.
The Procedure: What to Expect
Each session may last about 30 minutes, though the total appointment time, including numbing, can be around 2 hours. It’s best to see a board-certified dermatologist, plastic surgeon, or cosmetic surgeon for this procedure. In some states, an aesthetician may also perform the procedure if supervised by a physician.
Approximately 45 minutes to 1 hour before the procedure, a topical anesthetic is typically applied to the treatment area to numb the skin. During the procedure, a doctor makes small pricks under the skin using a pen-like tool with tiny, sterilized needles. The tool is moved evenly across the skin to ensure rejuvenated skin is even. The session may conclude with the application of a growth serum or calming treatment.
Risks and Side Effects
Like all cosmetic procedures, microneedling carries some risks. A common side effect is minor skin irritation immediately following the procedure, with redness potentially lasting for a few days. Some people may experience more severe side effects that require medical treatment, such as bleeding, bruising, infection, or peeling.
The medical community generally considers microneedling to be safe and effective, but there are still some risks. The primary risk is skin irritation after the procedure. Other side effects could include swelling, discomfort at the site, redness, bruising, dryness, and flaking of the skin.
Bleeding is an uncommon reaction to microneedling, though it may be more likely to occur after a deeper treatment or for individuals with bleeding disorders or those taking blood-thinning medications. It is important to disclose this information to a doctor before receiving this treatment.
There is also a risk of more serious side effects, including infections, skin pigment changes, and reactions to topical medications used during treatment. Some devices involve additional risks; those that use energy or heat can increase the likelihood of burns.
Who May Not Be a Good Candidate?
- Individuals with certain skin conditions, such as psoriasis or eczema
- Those with open wounds or active acne
- People who have had radiation therapy recently
- Individuals with a history of keloid scars or active keloid scarring
- Those with active oral herpes or fungal infections
- Pregnant individuals (may need clearance from an obstetrician or gynecologist)
- People taking isotretinoin (Accutane) - it's recommended to wait at least 6 months after stopping the medication.
Before the procedure, you may need to stop taking certain medications, such as ibuprofen and those for acne treatment. Dermatologists may also recommend avoiding agents that may increase your skin’s sensitivity, including topical retinoids and exfoliants.
Post-Procedure Care and Recovery
Microneedling is not as invasive as plastic surgery, with minimal recovery time. Most people require minimal downtime, if any at all. Skin irritation and redness are common within the first few days but should resolve on their own. If comfortable, you can return to work or school after the procedure, but it’s best to let your skin heal before applying makeup.
Your skin will be more sensitive to the sun, so be sure to apply sunscreen. Dermatologists typically recommend waiting one week before exposing your skin to sunlight or harsh chemicals.
Optimal Care for Skin After Microneedling:
Since skin channels are open and sensitive after the procedure, it's best to avoid the following during the first week of recovery:
- Sun exposure
- Skincare products with alpha-hydroxy acids and retinol
- Makeup
- Sweating
You can help your skin heal by staying hydrated, using an antioxidant serum, a cooling mask, and collagen-stimulating peptides.
Microneedling vs. At-Home Rollers
Microneedling is far more effective than at-home rollers. Professional microneedling is performed in a board-certified doctor’s office. Unlike professional microneedling, most home derma rollers don’t puncture the skin deep enough to draw blood. While this might seem a less painful option, you may not achieve the same results.
The punctures made during professional microneedling are designed to induce skin rejuvenation. While you may be able to purchase medical-grade devices online that penetrate the skin more deeply, it’s best to have this treatment performed by a professional in a controlled environment to avoid consequences that may cause permanent scarring.
Home microneedling devices have shorter, more blunt needles than those designed for dermatologists. They are not meant to penetrate the skin deeply, meaning home treatments will have a limited response and results. However, even home devices will increase blood flow, which may temporarily brighten the skin.
Devices for home use are more difficult to clean, and not thoroughly cleaning a microneedling device can increase the risk of infection or injury, especially if the needles penetrate the skin. If you plan to use a derma roller at home, you may need to use it more frequently to maintain results.
Cost and Insurance Coverage
Microneedling can cost anywhere from $200 to $800 per session. The overall costs depend on the size of the area being worked on, the number of sessions needed, and the professional’s specific rates. Some clinics may offer financing or payment plans to make the treatments more affordable.
Microneedling is typically not covered by insurance unless your doctor deems the procedure medically necessary. However, those cases are rare. In the rare event that a doctor deems the procedure medically necessary, it’s recommended that you check with your insurance provider before your appointment.
Duration of Results and Maintenance
Results may vary based on the severity of the skin concern, its location, and the treatment plan used. A doctor may recommend four to six treatment sessions. The skin may continue increased collagen production for 3 to 6 months after microneedling treatment.
Microneedling often requires touch-up treatments as part of a long-term maintenance plan. The effects of SkinPen microneedling typically endure for four to six weeks. However, the skin needs time to organize collagen fibers and grow new skin tissue; cellular renewal does not happen overnight. Patients need to wait several months to see the full results of microneedling.
If microneedling is used to treat acne or burn scars, patients may need four to six treatments, scheduled four to six weeks apart, and the results may need six months to a year to reach their full potential.
Microneedling vs. Botox and Laser Treatments
Microneedling and Botox have different purposes. Microneedling treats scars, hyperpigmentation, and large pores by increasing the skin’s production of collagen. Botox, on the other hand, targets dynamic wrinkles caused by muscle movement.
Microneedling is less expensive than laser treatments, which can cost about four times as much. Microneedling may work better for people with darker skin tones because it doesn’t involve heat, unlike laser treatments, which can affect skin pigmentation. Laser treatments may offer faster results for some concerns, but microneedling enhances skin quality and texture.
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