Water, also known as H2O, is the most common skincare ingredient. The water used in cosmetics is purified and deionized, meaning that almost all mineral ions have been removed.
Key Ingredients and Their Benefits
Emollients and Moisturizers
Diisopropyl Dimer Dilinoleate is an oil-like emollient liquid that provides a cushiony feel to skin and makeup products. It offers a good balance of richness, smooth application, and low tackiness.
Sunflower oil, expressed directly from seeds, has been used for thousands of years, with evidence suggesting its use by American Indians around 3000 BC. It is a great emollient that smooths and hydrates the skin, strengthens the skin barrier, and is rich in fatty acids like linoleic (50-74%) and oleic (14-35%). Unrefined sunflower oil is particularly high in linoleic acid, beneficial for acne-prone skin.
Glyceryl Stearate is formed by attaching a glycerin molecule to stearic acid. It can be produced from most vegetable oils through a simple, "green" process similar to soap making and is readily biodegradable. It occurs naturally in the body and is used as a food additive, with its safety being well-established.
Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol that acts as an emollient, making the skin feel smooth and nice. It also helps to thicken products and acts as an emulsifier, aiding in the blending of water and oil.
Squalane is a stable, oily liquid with a long shelf life, derived from sources like fish and plant oils (e.g., olive) and human sebum. It is an excellent moisturizer that makes skin smooth without feeling heavy or greasy. Squalane is compatible with all skin types and conditions, including acne-prone and fungal-prone skin. Its unsaturated counterpart, Squalene, is less stable.
Avocado oil, rich in oleic acid (70%), palmitic acid (10%), and linoleic acid (8%), has excellent skin penetration abilities. It is a rich, highly moisturizing emollient that nourishes the skin and contains antioxidant properties due to its vitamin E content.
Shea butter is known for its emollient properties, regenerating and soothing the skin. It protects the skin from external factors like UV rays and wind and is rich in antioxidants, including vitamins A, E, and F. Shea butter provides a soft feel to the skin.
Sodium Hyaluronate, the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid, acts as a humectant, attracting and retaining water in the skin to keep it plump and elastic. It is often used interchangeably with hyaluronic acid and is believed by some to penetrate the skin better due to its smaller molecular size, though chemically they are very similar.
Trehalose is a type of sugar with water-binding properties that helps keep the skin hydrated.
Skin Conditioning and Repair
Sh-Oligopeptide-1, also known as Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF), is recognized for its wound healing and skin renewal properties. While it stimulates cell proliferation, it is not mutagenic. However, individuals with cancer, high skin cancer risk factors, or psoriasis should exercise caution when using EGF products.
Solvents and Penetration Enhancers
Butylene glycol (BG) is a colorless, syrupy liquid that acts as a solvent for other ingredients. It helps products absorb faster and deeper into the skin, improves spreadability, and attracts water to the skin as a humectant. BG is approved by Ecocert and is commonly used in natural products.
Emulsifiers and Stabilizers
Glycol Stearate is a white to beige powder that helps oil and water mix, acting as an oil-in-water emulsifier.
Sodium Hydroxide, also known as lye, is a highly alkaline solid used in small amounts to adjust the product's pH. It was historically used in ancient Egypt for soap making and is crucial for the efficacy of certain exfoliants like AHAs and BHAs.
Oleic Acid is a liquid fatty acid derived from oleic acid, offering excellent odor, thermal, and oxidation stability. It is useful for stabilizing pigments and mineral particles in oils and solvents.
Acacia Gum (Acacia Senegal Gum) is a large sugar molecule (polysaccharide) used as a natural thickening and gelling agent. It is often combined with Xanthan Gum to create gel formulas or stabilize emulsions.
Dimethicone is a common silicone that makes the skin feel silky smooth, adds a subtle gloss, and forms a protective barrier. It can temporarily fill fine lines and wrinkles, giving the skin a plumper appearance. It is also used in scar treatment gels to soften scars and increase elasticity.
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil is an essential oil from orange rinds. While it provides fragrance, it contains furanocoumarin, which can cause mild photosensitivity. Caution is advised, especially for daytime use.
Isostearyl Isostearate is an oil-loving, vegetable raw material-based ingredient that functions as an emulsifier, helping water and oil to mix.
Sodium Chloride, or salt, acts as a thickener in cleansing formulas containing ionic surfactants like Sodium Laureth Sulfate, transforming runny solutions into a gel texture. It also stabilizes emulsions in water-in-oil formulations.
Preservatives and Antioxidants
Tocopherol (a form of Vitamin E) is a common preservative in cosmetics, known for its safety and gentleness. Unlike parabens, it is not a commonly feared preservative.
Bisabolol is an active component of chamomile, known for its soothing properties.
Phenoxyethanol and Caprylyl Glycol are often blended as Optiphen, a preservative system that prevents microbial contamination and improves the product's feel.
Ascorbyl Palmitate (AP) is a derivative of Vitamin C, intended to improve stability. However, its stability is comparable to pure ascorbic acid, and studies suggest it may not significantly increase skin levels of Vitamin C or can even promote lipid peroxidation and cytotoxicity after UVB exposure. It is typically found in low concentrations in products.
Fragrance Components
Limonene is a common fragrance ingredient found in many plants and citrus fruit peel oils. While it has a pleasant smell and may enhance penetration of oil-loving components, it can oxidize upon air exposure, potentially causing allergic contact dermatitis and skin sensitization.
Skin Moisturizer animation
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