The newest launch from The Ordinary’s skin care line is a soothing and barrier support serum. Its bubblegum pink color is eye-catching and generating buzz online, much like the brand's bright red AHA and BHA exfoliating peeling solution has in the past.
The Ordinary describes the serum as a “multi-active solution designed to help repair skin barrier, soothe discomfort, and reduce the look of redness.” It also features an unexpected ingredient, cyanocobalamin (Vitamin B12), which is typically seen in the pharmaceutical industry in the form of a sublingual tablet or injection.
Understanding the Formulation: Key Ingredients and Their Roles
This article will take a closer look at the formulation to better understand its contents. Cyanocobalamin, or vitamin B-12, is well-known in the pharmaceutical industry for treating nutrient deficiencies. Typically found in meat and dairy products, vitamin B-12 may be administered to patients as an injection or sublingual tablet. In this product, it is being used topically for skin barrier repair and soothing effects.
Hydration and Moisture Retention
The overuse of exfoliating ingredients and harsh weather conditions can lead to excessively dry, tight, and uncomfortable skin. To combat this, the serum includes sugar-derived ingredients such as xylitylglucoside, anhydroxylitol, and xylitol. These ingredients are known to increase skin hydration and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
Pentylene glycol, typically used to thicken products, also contributes a smooth, soft, and moisturizing feel. It is naturally found in plants like sugar beets and acts as a humectant, drawing moisture from the air to the skin, thus helping to keep it hydrated. This property also makes pentylene glycol a great texture enhancer and can help thicken or stabilize a product. It also acts as a mild preservative.
Phospholipids, naturally found in our skin as a main component of cell membranes, also play a role. They possess humectant, emollient, and antioxidant properties. These complex lipids, containing glycerin, fatty acids, and a phosphate group, can help hydrate the skin by drawing in and trapping moisture. Studies show they display antioxidant activity and may help reduce signs of aging.
Xylitol, a sugar alcohol, functions as a humectant and prebiotic. It has been shown in studies to improve dry skin by decreasing transepidermal water loss and improving the biomechanical properties of the skin barrier. Its prebiotic property may also help reinforce the skin's natural microbiome, preventing infection by bad bacteria and aiding hydration.
Skin Barrier Support and Repair
Centella asiatica extract, a popular Korean skin care ingredient featuring compounds like asiaticoside, asiatic acid, and madecassic acid, provides moisturizing and skin-repairing benefits. These actives can help reduce inflammation, strengthen the skin barrier, and decrease scarring.
Cetylhydroxyproline palmitamide is structurally similar to natural ceramides found in the skin. When applied topically, it can contribute to skin barrier function. Sphingolipids, a major class of lipids in cell membranes, also offer emollient, skin conditioning, and skin-protecting properties, contributing to a healthy skin barrier.
Tocopherol (Vitamin E), a common fat-soluble antioxidant, helps protect the skin from free radicals and strengthens the skin barrier. It supports natural skin lipids and offers some UV protection, working synergistically with Vitamin C.
Stearic Acid, a fatty acid, acts as an emollient, helping to soften the skin and aid the skin's protective barrier by preventing water loss. It also helps stabilize ingredients like water and oil.
Soothing Redness and Irritation
The serum's ability to reduce the appearance of redness and irritation can be attributed to several ingredients. Niacinamide, present at a reported 2% concentration, is a multifunctional ingredient known to mitigate redness. Topically applied, it also reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, and sebum production, offering oil control.
Panthenyl triacetate and naringenin work to reduce skin redness and irritation by interrupting the skin’s irritation signaling process, specifically the release of cytokines. Bisabolol, propyl gallate, gallyl glucoside, and epigallocatechin gallatyl glucoside provide a soothing layer to the formula through a similar mechanism.
4-T-Butylcyclohexanol has demonstrated skin-soothing properties by intercepting irritation signals, helping to calm the skin within minutes. It can also function as a masking ingredient to cover other unpleasant scents.
Bisabolol is well-known for its skin-soothing properties by blocking inflammatory signals, reducing the body's reaction to irritation. It also interferes with hyperpigmentation, helping to reduce dark spots and uneven tone. As an antioxidant, it fights free radicals and may slow signs of aging. Bisabolol also aids in the absorption of other ingredients.
Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) extract contains the active component gingerol, which has potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Combined with Bisabolol, it works synergistically to soothe the skin and reduce redness. Ginger also contains moisturizing polysaccharides, amino acids, and sugars, and is known to increase blood circulation, providing a toning effect.
Understanding the Formulation: Emulsion and pH
This formulation is an emulsion, utilizing a patented blend of emulsifiers that requires a neutralization process to a pH of 6-6.5 using sodium hydroxide. The emulsifiers influence the formulation's viscosity and the product's aesthetics, such as spreadability and rub-out.
The Ordinary's Approach and Product Positioning
A bubblegum pink formula, especially in the year of the Barbie movie, is sure to catch consumers' attention. The Ordinary is recognized for its affordable approach to skincare and its market strategy of showcasing singular ingredient-labeled products. The Ordinary, a DECIEM brand, states its products are “clinical formulations with integrity,” offering effective formulations with innovative technologies at accessible price points.
The serum discussed here sells at $17 for 30 mL (approximately 1 oz), which is a standard amount for a serum.
Key Benefits and Research Results
- Reduces the appearance of redness.
- Improves all-day hydration.
- Repairs the skin barrier in 2 hours (based on clinical testing on 23 people after 1 application).
Ingredient Callouts and Concentrations
- Niacinamide: A good concentration (2.30% - 2.90%) of this well-studied, multi-tasking active. It supports essential skin components that help promote hydration, supports the skin barrier, regulates oil production, reduces acne and clogged pores, fights photodamage, and improves skin tone by reducing pigmentation marks.
- Vitamin B12 (Cyanocobalamin): Helps support the skin barrier by reducing skin dryness and redness, and gives the formula its unique pink color.
- Actives derived from Centella Asiatica: Including madecassic acid (0.50% - 0.75%), asiatic acid (0.55% - 0.80%), and asiaticoside (0.55% - 0.85%). These help reduce inflammation, strengthen the skin barrier, reduce photodamage, and decrease scarring.
- Humectants: Such as anhydroxylitol (0.95% - 1.15%) and xylitylglucoside (1.40% - 1.70%). These ingredients attract water to the upper layer of the skin, improving hydration.
How to Use
- Apply a few drops to the face in the morning and evening after cleansing.
Precautions
- If irritation occurs, rinse off, cease use, and consult a physician.
- Use only as directed on unbroken skin.
- Patch testing prior to use is advised.
- Keep out of reach of children.