While finding a stylish and functional rain jacket in stores can be a challenge, creating your own offers a rewarding project. This guide explores the essential elements for making a durable and water-resistant jacket, focusing on fabric selection, construction techniques, and care. While this article references the Lou jacket pattern as an example, the principles discussed can be applied to any outerwear pattern.
Understanding Fabric Properties for Rain Gear
The foundation of any good rain jacket lies in its fabric. It's crucial to understand the nuances between waterproof, water-resistant, and water-repellent materials to choose the best option for your needs.
Waterproof vs. Water-Resistant vs. Water-Repellent
It's important to note that no fabric is entirely waterproof if subjected to prolonged saturation. Even professional-grade gear like Gore-Tex has its limits. The goal is to select a fabric that offers sufficient water resistance for your intended activities, whether it's a rainy hike or simply running errands.
Durable Water Repellent (DWR)
Many waterproof fabrics are treated with a Durable Water Repellent (DWR) finish. This treatment causes raindrops to bead up and roll off the fabric's surface. However, this repellent property wears off over time and requires reapplication, a practice even recommended by brands like Patagonia for their gear.
Water-Resistant Fabrics
Water-resistant fabrics make it difficult for water droplets to penetrate, but they are not completely waterproof. Similarly, water-repellent fabrics also resist water but are not entirely waterproof. For light rain or short exposures, these fabrics can be effective and often offer good breathability, preventing overheating.
Types of Fabrics for Rain Jackets
A variety of fabrics can be utilized for crafting rain jackets, each with its own advantages:
Laminated Fabrics
These fabrics have a waterproof layer bonded to them, typically on the wrong side. This construction enhances water resistance and can add structure to the garment. While not always completely waterproof, laminated fabrics offer excellent water resistance. Laminated cotton, in particular, can be found in attractive prints, balancing aesthetics with function.
Fleece
For outdoor garments, a very dense fleece specifically marketed for water resistance can be a suitable choice.
Nylon Taffeta
Often treated with a DWR, nylon taffeta is a good option for water repellency.
Oilskin
A traditional water-resistant fabric, oilskin is created by coating cotton or linen with a wax and oil mixture. It forms a physical barrier against water. Dry oilskin has an additional treatment to remove any residue. When sewing with traditional oilskin, consider using a protective lining like cotton or lawn to prevent residue transfer.
Ripstop Nylon
Woven in a specific pattern, ripstop nylon creates a tight seal against moisture and is highly resistant to tearing. The characteristic small squares in its weave are indicative of this durable construction.
Softshell
A versatile option for casual rain jackets, softshell fabrics offer more protection than fleece but less than waxed canvas or oilskin. Typically made from nylon or polyester blends, they often incorporate elastane for stretch and comfort.
Silkara
This fabric, similar to taffeta, is often used for water-resistant capes, such as those found in salons.
Waxed Canvas
Similar to oilskin, waxed canvas is treated with wax to create a water-repellent barrier. The cotton fibers absorb the wax, making the fabric watertight. It is breathable, highly durable, and comfortable. Regular waxing is necessary to maintain its water resistance, and care must be taken to prevent wax transfer to the lining. Pre-waxed yardage is available, or you can wax your own fabric.
Wool
Naturally water-resistant, wool, especially boiled wool, offers good protection against moisture. Felted wool hats are a classic example of its use in wet weather gear.
Waterproof Non-Breathable Fabrics
Fabrics like neoprene are waterproof but do not allow moisture to escape, which can lead to trapped sweat. They can also be stiff and may not drape well for garment construction. Oilcloth, a vinyl-coated fabric, is generally better suited for items like bags or tablecloths rather than jackets.
Waterproof Breathable Fabrics
These advanced fabrics keep moisture out while allowing perspiration to escape, ensuring comfort. They typically consist of two or three layers, with an inner waterproof membrane or laminate. Examples include PUL (Polyurethane Laminate) and various technical fabrics like Gore-Tex.
Polyurethane-Coated Nylon
This fabric achieves its waterproofness through a polyurethane coating applied to a nylon base.
Silnylon
A lightweight and waterproof option, Silnylon is made from silicone-coated nylon.
Gore-Tex
A well-known trademark, Gore-Tex is a popular choice for rain gear due to its lightweight and breathable properties. It pioneered laminate technology in the late 1970s.
Understanding Fabric Limitations
It's a common misconception that all waterproof fabrics can withstand prolonged immersion. Fabrics like waxed canvas, PUL, and Gore-Tex, while excellent, will eventually saturate under extreme conditions. Therefore, selecting a fabric that meets your specific needs for water resistance is key.
Essential Notions and Tools
Beyond the main fabric, several other materials and tools are crucial for successful rain jacket construction.
Linings
While not always necessary, a lining can add comfort and moisture-wicking capabilities. Options include:
- Mesh: Particularly micro mesh, is a good choice for breathability.
- Non-coated nylon
- Acetate linings
- Slippery fabrics: Such as rayon bemberg or voile.
Sewing Notions and Tools
- Wonder clips: Useful for holding layers together without piercing waterproof fabric.
- Teflon sheet: Protects your iron when seam sealing.
- Sharp needles: Microtex needles are recommended for technical fabrics. Use the thinnest needle possible to minimize needle holes.
- Polyester thread: Offers greater durability than cotton thread.
- Water-resistant zippers: Coil zippers with DWR coating and water-resistant pulls.
- Sew-in interfacing: As some fabrics may melt with fusible interfacing.
- Walking foot: Aids in feeding slippery fabrics evenly.
- Tailor’s clapper: Useful for finger-pressing seams, as direct ironing of some fabrics like waxed canvas can be damaging.
Construction Techniques for Waterproof Garments
Sewing with waterproof fabrics requires specific techniques to ensure the integrity of the garment's water resistance.
Preparation and Cutting
Begin by cutting your fabric in a single layer. Be aware that some fabric marking tools may not adhere well to waterproof surfaces.
Ironing and Pressing
Waxed canvas and oilskin should generally not be ironed, as heat can cause discoloration or melting. If pressing is absolutely necessary, use low to medium heat with a press cloth. Always test on a swatch first.
Stitch Length
Consider lengthening your stitch, even for construction seams. A stitch length of around 3mm can be a good compromise. If you anticipate switching between seam stitching and topstitching, a consistent mid-length can simplify the process.
Seam Sealing
Seam sealing is a critical step to close any needle holes created during sewing. This can be achieved with:
- Seam sealing tape or glue: Apply the adhesive along the seams and allow it to dry completely (which can take several hours).
- Seam sealing tape: Cut tape to the length of the seam, ensuring it covers the seam allowance. Press the tape onto the seam using a press cloth or Teflon sheet on both sides for about 10 seconds. Once fused, the seal is permanent, so proceed with caution.
If you are sewing a lining, you may need to seam seal the entire garment first and then attach the lining, creating new holes. Choose which seams to seal carefully, and ensure your seam allowance is not wider than your seam tape.
Care and Maintenance
Proper care will extend the life and performance of your handmade rain gear.
Washing
If your fabric allows, wash your rain gear periodically. Use technical cleansers designed for waterproof fabrics. Avoid fabric softeners, bleach, and dry cleaning, as these can degrade the DWR treatment and waterproof membranes.
Waxed Canvas and Oilskin Care
These materials should not be machine washed with warm water. Spot cleaning is recommended. They may require reapplication of wax to maintain their water resistance.
Testing Water Resistance
To check if your jacket is still effectively repelling water, use a spray bottle filled with water and spray it onto the fabric. If the water beads up and rolls off, the DWR is still effective. If the fabric darkens or absorbs the water, it's time to reapply a DWR treatment.
Historical and Cultural Significance of Seal Skin
Traditionally, seal fur and leather have been vital materials for Indigenous communities in northern and coastal regions for thousands of years. These materials provided essential protection against harsh winter conditions.
Properties of Seal Skin
Seal fur is breathable, windproof, and retains heat. It is known for its softness, strength, and elegant appearance. The Ringed Seal, with its distinctive markings, has been a significant source for traditional clothing, often featuring a silver-grey color with dark spots and stripes. Sealskin dyes well, allowing for customization.
Cultural and Economic Importance
Seal hunting has been central to the survival and culture of the Inuit and other Indigenous coastal communities for millennia. It sustains these communities both culturally and economically. The practice emphasizes the use of all parts of the harvested animal and is conducted with respect for animal welfare and the community's subsistence needs.
Preparation and Sustainability
Seal pelts are prepared using traditional methods or tanning, resulting in durable, flexible, and resistant materials. Purchasing Indigenous seal fur and/or seal skin products supports these northern and coastal communities.
