The story of Pappy Van Winkle bourbon is deeply intertwined with the history of American whiskey, tracing its roots back to the late 19th century and the entrepreneurial spirit of Julian P. "Pappy" Van Winkle, Sr. His journey in the bourbon industry began in 1893, fresh out of Centre College, when he took a job as an on-the-road whiskey salesman for the W. L. Weller Company. Traveling the Midwest by horse and buggy, he famously stated, "I wanted a job and I got one."
Founding of Stitzel-Weller Distillery
Ultimately, Pappy Van Winkle, along with his partners Alex Farnsley and A. Ph. Stitzel, played a pivotal role in building a company that would become renowned for producing some of the finest bourbon in the world for a significant portion of the 20th century. In 1908, Pappy and another Weller salesman acquired the firm. Later, they purchased the A. Ph. Stitzel Distillery, which was responsible for producing bourbon for Weller. These two entities merged, forming the Stitzel-Weller Distillery.
The Stitzel-Weller plant officially opened on Derby Day in May 1935, just outside Louisville in Shively, Kentucky. Pappy Van Winkle Sr. exerted a considerable influence on its operations until his death at the age of 91. The distillery was known for its unique wheated bourbon mash bill, using wheat as the secondary flavoring grain instead of rye, which imparted a softer, smoother taste to the finished product. This distinctive characteristic contributed to its reputation and earned it the nickname "The Cathedral of Bourbon."
Generational Legacy and Brand Revival
The Van Winkle family's involvement in the bourbon industry continued through subsequent generations. Julian P. Van Winkle, Jr., Pappy's son, became president of the Stitzel-Weller Distillery in 1947, leading the firm until its sale in 1972. After the sale, Julian Jr. resurrected a pre-Prohibition label, the only one to which the Van Winkles retained the rights: Old Rip Van Winkle. He utilized whiskey stocks from the old distillery to supply his brand.
Julian Jr.'s son, Julian III, took over the reins in 1981. Following his father's passing, Julian III purchased Lawrenceburg, Kentucky's dormant Old Hoffman Distillery and renamed it Commonwealth Distillery. For two decades, he used this facility to process whiskey distilled by his father and grandfather before bottling it under the Old Van Winkle name. In 1977, he was joined by his son, Julian III, forming the firm of J.P. Van Winkle & Son.
The Rise of Pappy Van Winkle Family Reserve
The Van Winkle bourbon whiskey available today is aged longer than most other bourbons on the market. Pappy Van Winkle's Family Reserve stands as the flagship brand of the "Old Rip Van Winkle Distillery" company. The first bottle of Pappy Van Winkle Family's Reserve was released in 1994, having been aged for an impressive 20 years. Four years later, the brand introduced an even older bottling, Pappy Van Winkle Family's Reserve 23. In 2004, the brand's most commonly available 15 Year Old bourbon entered the market. These expressions are aged for 15, 20, or 23 years, considerably longer than typical bourbon aging periods.
The Van Winkle family's commitment to quality is encapsulated in Pappy Van Winkle Sr.'s motto: "We make fine bourbon at a profit if we can, at a loss if we must, but always fine bourbon." This dedication extended to bringing family members into the company, including his son Julian Proctor Jr., son-in-law King McClure, and eventually grandson Julian Proctor Van Winkle III.
Cult Following and Unprecedented Demand
The bourbon that enthusiasts refer to as "Pappy" is technically Pappy Van Winkle's Family Reserve, the premium offering in a line of whiskeys now contract-distilled at Buffalo Trace Distillery by Pappy's grandson, Julian Van Winkle III. The product has garnered a cult-like following, with discerning palates and renowned chefs like Anthony Bourdain and David Chang favoring it. Food Republic reported Chef John Currence stating, "There's Pappy Van Winkle, then there's everything else."
Bourbon aficionados demonstrate immense dedication, forming long lines and participating in lotteries for a chance to purchase bottles, often at prices exceeding $100. It has been described as "the bourbon everyone wants but no one can get," with a writer for The Wall Street Journal dubbing it "$5,000 bottle of liquified, barrel-aged unobtanium." This scarcity is a result of an age-old supply and demand dynamic, creating a marketing dream for the brand.
The Origin Story of Pappy Van Winkle | The Most Legendary Bourbon Ever Made
The Mystery of John E. Fitzgerald
While Julian "Pappy" Van Winkle Sr. is central to the brand's story, the name "Old Fitzgerald," a prominent brand produced at Stitzel-Weller, is linked to John E. Fitzgerald. The exact identity and role of Fitzgerald remain somewhat elusive, with competing narratives. One account suggests he was an "ardent imbiber with exacting taste" who would "siphon off generous helpings of this special formula for his private stock."
Another compelling story posits that Fitzgerald was a treasury agent in Milwaukee. Government and whiskey warehouses were heavily guarded, and only federal agents possessed keys to bonded warehouses. This narrative suggests Fitzgerald had a refined palate and would skim the better bourbon from specific barrels during his rounds. These barrels, when slightly lighter upon bottling, were reportedly called "Fitzgeralds." This story has influenced modern bourbon brands like Heaven Hill's Larceny, which is based on the legend of Fitzgerald stealing whiskey from the best barrels.
A different John E. Fitzgerald made his mark in the distilling business, serving as plant manager and later secretary and treasurer of the Hammond Distillery near Chicago. This individual was regarded as one of the best distillers in the United States. Some speculate that Pappy Van Winkle Sr. might have used Fitzgerald's name for marketing purposes, possibly due to a business connection or a dispute. Regardless of the precise historical details, the name Fitzgerald has been associated with fine bourbon for over a century.
The Stitzel-Weller Distillery and its Brands
At Stitzel-Weller, Van Winkle produced several brands, with Old Fitzgerald being the most popular. This brand, named after John E. Fitzgerald, is a wheated bourbon, using wheat instead of rye. Stitzel-Weller was a significant, independently owned distillery, which today could be considered a large craft distillery. The distillery's reputation was already renowned for its core products of wheated bourbons, a unique approach that yielded a softer, smoother taste.
The brands produced at Stitzel-Weller included prominent names such as Old Fitzgerald, Old W.L. Weller, Cabin Still, Mammoth Cave, and Old Rip Van Winkle. The latter brand, carrying Julian's popular surname, was named after the famous children's tale by Washington Irving, not after Pappy himself. Other smaller brands included Old Elk, Old Mock, and Belle of Bourbon.
Prohibition and Post-Prohibition Era
The Volstead Act, which enacted Prohibition in the United States, presented Stitzel-Weller with a unique opportunity. The distillery was granted one of only six licenses by the federal government to produce whiskey for "medicinal purposes" during this era. This distinction allowed the distillery to continue operations when many others were forced to close.
After Prohibition ended, the Stitzel-Weller distillery and its current brand names, including W.L. Weller, were sold in 1972. Julian Van Winkle Jr. resurrected the Old Rip Van Winkle brand, initially using old whiskey stocks from the distillery for its bottlings. The brand experienced a resurgence, particularly after the 1972 sale, and continued to be supplied by whiskey produced years prior.
The Bourbon Heists and Counterfeiting
The immense desirability and value of Pappy Van Winkle have unfortunately led to illicit activities. In December 2013, a significant theft occurred at the Buffalo Trace Distillery, with over 20 cases of Pappy Van Winkle, along with other valuable bourbons, stolen as part of an underground crime ring. This event highlighted the extreme demand and the lengths to which some would go to obtain the coveted spirit.
The heists, which involved employees from both Wild Turkey and Buffalo Trace distilleries, led to indictments and a substantial reward for information. Counterfeiters have also exploited the brand's popularity, using empty Pappy Van Winkle's Family Reserve bottles to refill with other bourbons and sell them as authentic. The scarcity and high value have also inspired online recipes attempting to mimic the taste of Van Winkle bourbon by blending less valuable bourbons.
Modern Production and Enduring Legacy
Today, the Van Winkle family operates their business from a small office, with the whiskey itself contract-distilled at Buffalo Trace Distillery. Julian Van Winkle III and his son, Preston, oversee the operations. The bourbon is made from an old recipe that famously starts with corn and wheat, a tradition established by Julian Sr. at the Stitzel-Weller distillery.
Despite the challenges of maintaining production levels to meet demand, Julian Van Winkle III remains conservative, aiming for a small percentage increase in production each year. This approach ensures the brand's exclusivity while preserving the legacy of quality and craftsmanship. Security has been enhanced at Buffalo Trace to prevent further theft of the precious Pappy. Some experts even suggest that the Buffalo Trace-distilled Pappy may surpass the older Stitzel-Weller product in quality, a testament to the enduring pursuit of excellence in bourbon making.